Shoe-upper



(No Model.)

I W. T. MARTIN.

SHOE UPPER.

No. 469,259. Patented Feb. 23, 1892,.

0., WASHINOYBN n c NITED STATES PATENT tries.

WVAIIPER T. MARTIN, OF DOVER, NElV HAMPSHIRE.

SHOE-UPPER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 469,259, dated February 23, 1892.

Application filed June 18, 1891. Serial No, 396,178. (No model.)

To aZZ whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, WALTER T. .MARTIN, of Dover, New Hampshire, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

Shoes having. the sides or quarters formed in one piece and split apart by a cut or slit at the top to admit a small gore or auxiliary piece within the split have heretofore been made, the said large piece extending along the top of the shoe on both sides of the gore, filling out the upper to its extreme limits; but that construction consumed more leather in making the patterns for the upper than is desirable, and'the disposition of the seams by which the gore is inserted is objectionable for reasons hereinafter mentioned. I have invented an improvement upon such old construction, and by that improvement, while I form the quarters in one piece,(which for convenience I will call the quarter-piece,)-cut or slit that piece, and add a smaller piece, I make the quarter-piece of such shape and make the cut and slit in it at such part, as hereinafter described, that when said quarter-piece is folded over or bent to the shape it will occupy in the shoe it no longer reaches upward on both sides of the cut or slit to the top of the shoe to complete the contour of the upper along the top beyond the slit; but one side of the slit now extends laterally to the front of the shoe, leaving the space needed to fill out the outline of the upper along the top to be filled entirely by the small supplemental piece which I attach to each side of the slit of the quarter-piece. By this means I make a marked saving in the stock required for the quarter-piece, and I get rid of one vertical seam at a part where such seam is especially exposed to strain and liable to rip.

The improvement will be further understood by reference to the drawings, in which- Figure 1 illustrates the configuration of the quarter-piece. Fig. 2 shows this piece folded as hereinafter explained. Fig. 3 is the supplementary piece; and Fig. at shows a shoe embodying my invention, the upper part of the button-fly being broken away to show the construction underneath.

To obtain the pattern for the quarter-piece 19, containing the quarters A and B, I first mark out on paper the full outline of the larger quarter A of the usual pattern. (See Fig. 1.) I then cut the paper on this outline, except at the rear, where it is left integral with the rest of the paper along the line a b c. I then fold the paper over on the line a b, extended, (see Fig. 2,) and cut the partB to the shape of part A around the bottom and in front, only making it in front a little smaller, as this part B is to receive the buttons,while the part A is to carry the button-fly. I then unfold the paper again and make the slits 5', beginning at the top of the pattern at a short distance on the smaller quarter 13 from the rear outline of the larger quarter A and running parallel to the line b 0 down to s, a point about the same distance from b as the point 5 was from c. I then cut off a little from the other side of this slit from s to s", as shown,

for convenience in cutting from the pattern.

In making the shoe I cut out a piece of leather by this pattern in the shape shown at Fig. 1. I then cut out a small piece of leather D (shown at Fig. 3) of the size and shape needed to supplement and complete the upper when bent toshape and stitch this piece D to the quarter B, as shown in Fig. 4. It will be seen that in cutting out the parts as described there is substantially a V-shaped opening formed at the bottom of the pattern, and in completing the upper the sides of this opening are stitched together, its function being to cause the heel of the upper to'conform to the rear contour of the last.

By making the piece D supplement the quarter and form its upper corner instead of inserting a gore within the quarter it is obvious that this pattern will cut much more advantageously and economically, for the extreme dimensions required for the quarterpiece 13 are wholly comprised within very much smaller limits. By this construction also almost all strain is removed from the seam s s in buttoning the shoe orin wear, for the strain at this part is in the direction of the I length of the seam instead of being transverse to it, as would be the case if the seam were vertical. Moreover, a part of this supplementary piece and of one seam is covered and concealed by the button-fly, a great advantage of the present construction unattained IOO by the old method of inserting a gore, as above described.

I claim The boot 0r shoe upper herein described, 5 comprising the piece 19, consisting of the larger quarterA and the smaller quarter B, integral with each other, having the slit 3s, and snpplementary piece D, forming the upper corner of said smaller quarter B, stitched to the sides of said slit bya vertical and by a horizon- 1o tal seam and having at the heel a V-shaped cut sewed up, all substantially as described.

WALTER T. MARTIN. Witnesses:

WM. S. ROGERS, GEO. W. FRENCH. 

